April, 2005
Featured Article(s)
Not Just for Easter: what you need to know before bringing home bunny

Karen Peak, Your Life! Pet Advisor
West Wind Dog Training & The Safe Kids/Safe Dogs Project
Over the years, rabbits became popular as pets along with symbols of religion and a source of food.  Sadly, the association of rabbits with the "modern  Easter and illusions about their needs has done nothing but hurt rabbits. 

Every winter, millers mass breed millions of bunnies for the big Easter rush. They ship very young bunnies (under eight weeks old and sometimes barely weaned) to brokers and pet shops all over the country.  Every summer and fall, thousands of adolescent Easter gifts wind up being neglected, shoved in outdoor cages and forgotten about.

Before considering a rabbit, there is much to learn.


General Overview of the Domestic Rabbit:
Rabbits can be very social and affectionate creatures contrary to popular belief that they are solitary.  Many rabbits enjoy the company of a cage mate and if there is no bunny buddy, humans must take over the role.  In order to have a well-socialized rabbit that enjoys being handled, frequent human attention on a daily basis is a MUST.   They are not the natural cuddlers stories lead us to believe and must learn to accept human handling.  Ignored rabbits develop fears of humans and may become aggressive or flighty due to lack of proper socializing.  Rabbits given lots of running time may not want to sit in your lap.  Adjust them to handling before giving full run of a room or rooms.  Rabbits enjoy moving about and younger ones may spend more time racing about and having fun than sitting quietly with you. 

Rabbits are inquisitive, natural chewers (so the rooms they are allowed in MUST be rabbit proofed) and diggers.   Bored rabbits can be very destructive to the house and even themselves.  My own rescue bun has no upper or lower incisors due to wire pulling (a symptom of boredom).  Severe wire pulling can misalign the teeth or even rip them out. 

A rabbit's lifespan can be 7 - 10 years if properly cared for and medical concerns addressed immediately. 


Rabbit have a great range in size. The smallest is the Netherland Dwarf with a maximum size for show of 2.08 lbs. However due to the genetics behind the dwarfism, in a litter you can have bunnies that will get much larger.  The largest breed is the Flemish Giant, which can tip the scales at 20 lbs and has a minimum show size of 13lbs.  Rabbits have a variety of coat types with the three main being: normal rabbit coat; a shorter, plush coat (rexed); or wool.  The coats come in thousands of patterns, shades and can mimic the color and such of any animal used for fur (chinchilla, silver fox, etc).   Rabbits can have upright or lopped ears.

Should you get a rabbit?
As a parent, I know how difficult it can be to say "No,  to pleading eyes and promises to take care of a pet.  However, no pet of any species should ever be purchased for a child to be sole caretaker for.  Unless the parent is willing to accept 100% of the responsibility for that pet for its entire life, the child is not ready for it.   This means 1005 of medical, financial, emotional and physical needs for the pet for its entire life. Think, you get your 8 year old a bunny and bun lives ten years.  What if at age 8 ½ the child loses interest in the bunny?  Will the parents take over the full needs of it for the next 9 ½ years?  What is ten years in the life of an 8 year old?  Elementary school, Middle School, High School and maybe even the first year of college can be spanned during this ten years.  Are the parents willing to make this commitment?


Rabbits should not be purchased for young children, as young children may not understand how to be gentle enough or quiet enough for the rabbit.  Scared rabbits can inflict nasty injuries to humans with their teeth and hind legs.  Scared or improperly held rabbits can kick out and cause serious injury (even fatal injury) to themselves.

If you have only a few minutes a day to spend interacting with the rabbit, do not get one.  They require almost as much work in many respects as cat or dog if you want a friendly, social bun. 


Housing needs:
Pet rabbits should be kept inside.  It is safer for them and better socially.  There are many physical risks to outdoor rabbits and they are more likely to have behavioral issues due to lack of attention and socializing. The cage should be in an area with activity but not one that is total chaos: rabbits need quiet time. Keep it out of direct drafts but in a well-ventilated are and not indirect sunlight. 


Feeding:
A good commercial rabbit pellet is a start.  Ox Bow, Agway-Big Red, Heinhold, Blue Seal, Purina are some of the better brands.  Look for a protein level of 14-17%, fat of 5-10% and at least 18% fiber.  Feed your rabbit twice a day and do not let food sit out in the bowls.  It can attract pests - even inside.  Store pellets in a cool, dry, sealed container. 

Rabbits need a variety of fresh foods in their diet: fresh vegetables (dark greens like kale, dandelion greens, mustard greens, etc., carrots, parsnips, squash chunks, pumpkin chunks, etc), fruit (apple slices, small bits of banana, grapes, melon, etc) and berries (blue berries, raspberries - and rabbits like the leaves and tender shoots from bushes, strawberries, etc).  Too many fresh foods too fast can lead to loose stool.  Introduce a new fresh food every few days in SMALL amounts.

Hay must be available at all times especially during sheds and if you own wooled breeds.   Ingested fur can cause blockages and the fiber helps keep things moving.


Handling:
NEVER pick up a rabbit by the ears.  You can cause damage to the sensitive tissues.  One way is to grasp the loose skin over the shoulders and a supporting hand under the rump.  IMMEDIATELY pull the rabbit close you your body with a hand underneath and the other around.  If the rabbit gets fidgety or nervous, tuck his head into the crook of your arm.  Smaller rabbits can be scooped up with a hand under the belly and one under the rump.  A rabbit that does not feel secure when being held will kick scratch and even bite. 

Health:
Rabbits fall under the category of exotic animal for veterinary medicine.  Before you get a rabbit, look for an exotics vet with a good amount of rabbit experience.  Rabbits have different needs in regards to anesthesia and do best with inhalation anesthetics as opposed to injectable ones.  Any vet who does not know this should be avoided. 

Part of good health for the pet rabbit is spaying or neutering.  There are many benefits both medical and behavioral to having this done.  Intact rabbits can be testier and less affectionate, males can even get aggressive and very territorial.  There is no chance of testicular cancer in neutered males or with uterine cancer or infections in spayed females.  Also, rabbits are the third most popular animals given up.  Altering your pet ensures that there will be no risk of unwanted babies - especially if you have two rabbits that could be of the opposite sex.

(For more on rabbit health and finding an exotics vet, please check out the Association for Exotic Mammal Veterinarians at: www.aemv.org/newsite/first2003.html or www.aemv.org for the main site.)


Choosing your rabbit:
After reading all this, you have decided that a rabbit is for you.  Now what?  How do you find a pet rabbit?  If you just want a sweet bunny, and many rabbits at rescues are identifiable as purebreds, please, seek out a shelter or rabbit rescue.  Over the years, there has been a surge in rabbit specific rescues all over the world.  Many will already have altered the animal prior to your adopting and will help match the best bunny to your home.    If you are looking for a possible show animal or a specific breed that is not commonly found in rescue, then seek out a good breeder.  A good breeder will not breed for the commercial pet trade, will breed for rabbits that fit the Standard of Perfection as printed by the American Rabbits Breeders Association and breed for health.  You can find a breeder through one of the many rabbit clubs recognized by the ARBA.  (www.arba.net)


Look for a rabbit that is lively (note, some breeds are sprightlier and more active than others, but no rabbit should just sit there and look miserable).  Make sure that the eyes, ears and nose are free of debris and discharge.  The rabbit should have no lumps or bumps on the body and the teeth should align correctly.  The rabbit should be social and not panicky about humans.  Ask what the rabbit is being fed and if you can have a few day's worth of that food so you can gradually wean the animal to what you will be feeding.  And make sure that if anything happens, the breeder will be willing to take the animal back at any time in its life.  This is a sign of a caring breeder.  Most rescues will require this of you, but many lesser quality breeders sadly have the "out of sight, out of mind  mentality when it comes to the animals.

Final Thoughts:
A little thought regarding getting a rabbit can lead to a long happy, healthy and enjoyable life.  Impulsive owners who are not prepared or willing to take on a rabbit will just add to the growing statistics of unwanted rabbits being neglected or left for others to pick up the pieces.
Bean Bunny, a small English Lop
Photo:  Karen Peak
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Puppy Crate Training
Fast Track to a Contented Dog
by Charles Burke

Puppy crate training is one of the most effective ways to housebreak your new puppy.

Puppy crate training takes a little patience, but it's a good way to set your puppy on the right path. This method has an impressive track record.

Be sure to prepare everything ahead of time. Even before you bring your new puppy home, have the puppy crate ready and waiting.

The size of the crate is important. For proper puppy crate training, you should have plenty of room in the crate for the puppy to turn around, stand and lie down, but don't get one that's too big. Puppies feel uncomfortable in a crate that's so big they rattle around in it.

If your puppy is a breed that will grow large, it's okay to buy a bigger crate for him to grow into, but make sure it has an adjustable partition in the back. This lets you keep his living space comfortable and cozy, but you can still expand it by moving the partition back as your puppy grows to full size.






When you are ready to begin puppy crate training, place your new puppy gently in his crate. Make sure you've also put a towel or small blanket and a treat or toy in the crate. If you're using a wire crate for puppy crate training, always remove the puppy's collar first so it won't get snagged on the wire.

You may hear some whining or even crying at this point. You need to ignore it. Sometimes it helps to cover the crate with a blanket so his home feels a little cozier. Remember, dogs are not claustrophobic. They like an enclosed space. It's their den.

After your puppy has remained in the crate for about twenty minutes, remove him from the crate and take him outside. As soon as he goes potty, praise him, pet him and make him feel loved and close.

The next step in the puppy crate training process is to bring your puppy back inside and play together for twenty to thirty minutes. Then it's time to put your puppy back in the crate. You'll be able to gradually increase the crate time to two hours.

Puppies will not usually go potty in their crates. If your puppy has an accident, never scold. They really don't understand the idea that going potty is bad, so scolding doesn't help. It only confuses them.

For best results with puppy crate training, you'll need to have a schedule. And when you take your puppy outside, always make sure you take him to the same spot each time. Especially at first, every time you remove him from his crate, you'll want to take him outside. This builds a clear association in his mind.

As your puppy begins to get the hang of puppy crate training you'll be able to leave him in the crate for longer periods. Eventually he'll feel so at home in the crate that you'll be able to leave the crate door open overnight and for short periods during the day.

Successful puppy crate training has two simple requirements: patience and a regular schedule. With those two things, your new puppy will soon be a happy, well-adjusted member of the family.

About The Author
Charles Burke Puppy-Toy-Tips.com
Learn great ways to use puppy toys for training and socializing your new pup. Make sure you're on the right track wnen training your dog. Also, go and get the free eBook of puppy coloring pages for your kids.
Remember, dogs are not claustrophobic. They like an enclosed space. It's their den.
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